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Blog posts of '2016' 'April'

Applying Render in Adverse Weather Conditions

Most render systems are best applied in optimal weather conditions – ideally between 5oC and 35oC, with no rain, wind or snow. However, some projects may have to be undertaken in less-than-ideal conditions either due to time or budget constraints, so it is vital that the risks and challenges of applying render in adverse weather conditions are fully understood. 

Know your conditions

It goes without saying that before you begin the application process of any render, you should read and fully understand the application instructions supplied by the manufacturer.

The type of render system being applied is another factor to consider. Dry dash systems are more resilient to wet and cold weather than their silicone counterparts.

It is also advisable to check the weather forecast for your planned application dates – try to avoid any days with excessive rain, wind, heat or cold. Extreme weather conditions can severely affect the both the application and drying / curing times of the render. 

Simple Solutions

In hot weather, do not apply render on walls which are exposed to direct sunlight. Instead, start on an adjacent wall in the shade and follow the sun around the building. This method allows you to work in sunny weather, whilst avoiding any curing issues direct sunshine may cause.

Certain weather conditions will slow the curing process down – usually due to colder temperatures (less than 5oC) or high humidity (90% and higher). If this is the case, then the render will retain moisture for a longer period of time and if sustained will become more susceptible to damage from trapped moisture so it is essential that the render system is protected during this stage.

Ask an expert 

At Rendit, we offer a 2-year crack free guarantee on our Render Systems, so if you need any help applying your render contact Rendit today!

“Do we really need to two pass with monocouche scraped renders?”

Do we really need to two pass the application of monocouche scraped renders and use a serrated edge? This is a question most applicators will furiously debate. The answer to this question I think depends on whether you ever have any of the below issues with any cementitious render product that you apply, whether it be a basecoat or top coat:

1. Sagging, bulges, tearing or slumping down the wall when trying to level off.

2. Splits that appear during initial set before scraping.

3. Holes or splits that appear and need filling during scraping off.

4. Long wait to scrape times and render setting that seems to "hang."

5. Cured renders that sound hollow in small random areas when tapped.

Some applicators who one pass and then spat straight away when applying through coloured scaped renders seem to accept that these issues are part and parcel of rendering and will work around them by either manually and laboriously filling any defects or resort to buying chemicals from third party manufacturers to try to modify the handling characteristics of the material which may have unknown effects on the render itself. There is an easier way to potentially solve the above problems without compromising the performance of render coating and that is by applying your render either over a basecoat, ensuring that a serrated edge is used to remove any trapped air after the application of each coat and before levelling off, or where a monocouche scraped render is to be applied directly to the substrate primed or not by applying in two level passes with the use of a serrated edge straight after the application of each pass and before levelling off. I recommend the 1st pass be approx of through coloured scraped render to be 6mm thick (ISH) with the second pass 10-12mm. Allow the 1st pass to stiffen slightly before applying the second pass. The use of a serrated edge on thinner layers effectively removes most or all of the trapped air and pulls the render together which usually sets it up lovely for levelling off.

I'll further explain my thoughts below:

Firstly, there has been a huge shift in all industries to green and environmental thinking. There’s been massive regulatory pressure applied to all manufacturers to focus on carbon saving on every aspect of their business and this has had a huge impact in product development labs everywhere. Everyone in the building industry is thinking cheaper, lighter, stronger, less energy for everything whether it be bricks, blocks, plasters, mortars and renders. I think for the render industry it’s had a great effect. From a render applicators point of view, today as I type this I honestly think that if you could buy a bag of render from any of the larger manufacturers and you would have a great product to apply. Gone are the days of the huge heavy trailer diesel powered mud-slinging pumps which could only be afforded by the busiest of applicators. These days due to these modern advancements you can buy a tiny but powerful Ritmo spray machine, plug it in and start firing a buttery, light and fluffy dream of a render at a wall 3 floors up in about 30 minutes. Applicators are positively spoilt in this day and age!

The push for green advancements does have a minor downside, especially when we look at the aerated concrete blocks available on today’s market, the push for cheaper, lighter and stronger does mean essentially that there’s more air in them, which in turn means more suction, or variable suction. Too much suction on a render that’s applied to thick on the first pass could result in accelerated drying backwards as the moisture is drawn quickly into the background and there’s potential for random splits occurring in the skin of the render due to the pressure of this pull. Whilst this won’t happen all the time, the risk of it happening is quite high and it is one of the reasons most renders are manufacturer would prefer their material to be applied in two passes. The first pass takes the initial suction hit and quickly pulls in which then protects the second pass from too much background pull. Most manufacturers still suggest a primer or a key coat on very lightweight blocks though as the suction on those things can be huge. Dense blocks need priming also but that’s because there’s not enough suction for the render to create its bond, but that’s for another article!

Secondly, renders in most of the country they have to be finished to a depth of a minimum of 15mm thick to achieve product specification. (20-25mm in some areas.) At this depth it's very easy to trap air deep in the material when one pass finishing as it is being applied with a spray or a trowel. This air may be difficult to remove at this depth, even with a serrated edge so you there may be a risk of air pockets forming underneath the skin of the render which show up as hollows or splits during the set / scrape or the material may sag when it tears at the air pockets during levelling off. You may not even see these problems happening until the scraping process at which at that point of no return they reveal themselves as random horizontal splits, holes, or hollow sounding areas across the wall. Our Mendrend Render Repair technicians can fix this if need be, but it needs a fair bit of work. 

Thirdly, two passing may improve the wait to scrape time, substantially if our site tests are to be believed, as the first pass being thinner will set very quickly which in turn will help the second pass set quicker too instead of one thick insulating pass which may retain moisture for longer.

You should find that the above advice may help with any product that you buy and may be struggling with the above issues but every gang works differently at the end of the day if you have methods that work for you for any given product there's not need to change for the sake of. If you would like more specific advice on the K Rend or Parex products we supply please contact us.

The Curse of the "Halo Ring."

What is a "Halo Ring?" It's a renderers nightmare that's what it is! 

Halo rings in render are formed during the scraping process when an applicator unwittingly scrapes through the finish coat to the much harder base coat or first pass resulting in a flat textured area that cannot be matched into the rest of the wall. The worst cases may even go as far to reveal the mesh embedded into the first pass as the below picture shows:

Halo Ring

Can they be avoided?

Most renderers I speak to have a story about a halo ring in either K Rend, Parex or other manufacturers mineral renders that caused them real headaches. Whilst we have had some success in correcting them with our Mendrend Render Repair System we cannot guarantee success under all circumstances as they all tend to be different. This is one of the most common issues we are asked to look at and if I'm honest the one we struggle with the most so if we can provide guidance to avoid it in the first place it suits us!

  1. Before starting application check the walls with a long straight edge. If any bows or bellies over 3-4mm are present in the substrate then seriously consider the use of a K Rend or Parex base coat instead of just priming to level the walls out ready for the finish coat.
  2. If applying a base coat ensure this too is level with a straight edge before applying the finish coat. Ensure that the K Rend or Parex finish coat is applied to a depth of at least 12mm over the top of the base coat to allow 2mm to be scraped with little risk of scraping too much away.
  3. If you aren't applying over a base coat and instead applying the finish coat in two passes, do not apply the first pass too thick, we advise the first pass should be around 6mm maximum and level for both K Rend and Parex. The second pass should be at least a further 12mm on top of that applied wet on wet.
  4. It is common for suppliers to under estimate the amount of material you will need in an effort to look like they are the cheapest or doing you a favour. They know that you will be straight back on the phone if you are running out of material and trying to get a job done. What generally happens instead is that the inexperienced applicator starts to take risks by spreading thinner. Always ask your supplier to justify the quantities quoted, backed by a manufacturers specification document. It's always better and cheaper to have a few bags left over at the end of the job rather than running out of material. Always ensure you allow 5-10% additional material for wastage on top of manufacturers quoted consumption figures as that doesn't tend to be included. You'll figure out how much you will need to allow for this yourself once you get a feel for the material after using it for a while. 
  5. Every applicator uses a slightly different amount of material to the next due to differing working patterns. Keep a record of material consumption over a few jobs to see if you get consumption rates that suit you.

Avoiding this issue is as simple as that! Hopefully you find this of help and avoid the renderers curse in future!